'We're trying to reconstruct the bob now that everyone has it,' said Garren, the mastermind behind the 'Karlie' cut and the shags at Anna Sui. Inspired by rock-and-roll legends like The Rolling Stones, The Beatles, and Jimmy Page, he created a piece-y texture by working R+Co Chiffon Mousse through damp strands, blowing hair upside down until it was about 80 percent dry, flipping it back over, and adding Rockaway Salt Spray for texture. But make no mistake, the messy waves that were more narrow and high instead of undulating and full were not meant to be beachy: 'The shag had movement and you can put your hands through it, while beachy hair is more Victoria's Secret and sexy-we wanted to take the sex out of it and make it cool,' he explained.
The model muse behind the look (and my personal hairspiration), Janice Alida, said the designer and Garren asked her to add more layers, a change she was more than happy to make. 'A haircut from Garren is gold,' she said backstage. 'My hair is superthick, so putting layers in it actually makes it more easy to manage and prevents it from puffing out.' When she's not walking Sui's shagadelic runway, she adds a bit of oil or cream to the ends to help the style 'sit better.'
To complete the look, makeup master Pat McGrath played off the cosmic patterns in the collection and dabbed a bit of chunky gold- or rose-colored glitter in the center of models' bare lids on top and bottom, as well as on the inner corners with a damp shadow brush. 'The pink is sweet, but the way it's placed is rebellious,' she said. The rest of the face was kept clean and 'freshly washed' with CoverGirl Ready Set Gorgeous foundation, and any fallen sparkles were removed gently with a loop of Scotch tape wrapped around face painters' fingers.
While NYFW has been characterized mainly by natural beauty, the total package presented at Sui certainly shook things up-perhaps triggering a wave of women to opt out of the banal bob and no-makeup makeup. 'It's like they've been in a van all day with the wind blowing and their haircut is taking on its own song,' Garren added. And honestly, who doesn't want to look like they're with the band?
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