White wigs signal a new chapter for Haider Ackermann.
'When you pair everything back down to the one common denominator-white-it gives you millions of possibilities,' said colorist Josh Wood of the hair at Haider Ackermann. 'It's a thinking man's color.' In other words, the 'army' of 'glacial' blonds at this morning's show isn't designed to be copied en masse, as this dye job is more 'metaphorical,' simulating the notion of a 'blank page' or a 'new journey.' One could think of the recent wave of raw hair on the runway in much the same way: 'If you go back to nothing, you can start over and do whatever you want again,' Wood noted. While many backstage pros attributed the minimalistic trend to very designed clothes and the nineties as a reference point, others see it as designers' reaction to multiple seasons of overdone beauty.
Ackermann's version of this, however, is a bit more extreme than rumpled strands: The all-white set contrasted the tonal collection and served as the perfect backdrop to the 'crystallized' wigs (a project that took three days and multiple trials to perfect). Not your average platinum, this hue requiring multiple layers of toner was, in a word, 'difficult' joked Wood. 'When you put the wig that had been created for the girl with bleached hair on the brunette, it looked completely wrong,' he said. 'So creating a blond wig to suit a brunette...it was fun.' Raven-haired catwalker Katlin Aas commented, 'I think if I had this color, I'd actually look tan!' The end result-in tandem with 'brutal' cuts by Eugene Souleiman and Yadim's 'alien' makeup (including white lashes and matte-but-luminous skin)-was not of this world, but serves as an inspiration to real women. Wood said, 'It's like a fight for individuality-you want to break free from this look and be you.'