Sinosphere | China Said to Deport Models for Working Illegally


The Chinese authorities have deported scores of foreign models whom they detained earlier this month in Beijing on accusations that the models were working illegally, said a model who once worked in China.


The model, Suzanne Loh, who now lives in Milan, said in an interview on Tuesday that Chinese officials allowed the embassies of the models' home countries to help with travel arrangements. Ms. Loh and other advocates for international models say that more than 60 models had been detained in Beijing since mid-May.


On Sunday, three Russian models were brought from a jail or detention center directly to the airport in Beijing, where they were put on a flight to Russia. 'They were deported to their homeland immediately,' Ms. Loh said. A Russian Embassy official accompanied the models on the drive to the airport.


Ms. Loh said she did not know how many models were deported before the Russians. Ms. Loh, who has been in touch with models in China who knew the people being detained, said that Beijing officials accused the jailed models of not having proper work visas.


During the detention period, the police allowed embassy officers to visit some of the models, said Ms. Loh, 26, who is from Malaysia and is an advocate for proper working conditions for international models. She added that although none of the models was physically harmed, they had 'no freedom.'


The crackdown began on May 8, when officials in Beijing held a fake casting call for models at an agency called M3 and rounded up more than 60 people who showed up without proper work permits or visas, according to the advocates. The advocates said at the time there were signs that a crackdown was under way in other parts of China as well. Industry blog writers reported on the events and warned foreign models in China to avoid casting calls and to hide their portfolios. Many of those detained in Beijing were from Eastern Europe, with Russia and Ukraine heavily represented.


Foreign models in China often work on tourist visas. Models have been leaving China following news of the crackdown, Ms. Loh said, but there are still many who remain or want to come to work there. She added that agencies in China are still accepting them and helping them to apply for tourist or business visas that would allow them entry to the country but not permit them to do modeling work.


Ms. Loh said a model friend in China had told her that some of the detained models had tested positive for illegal drug use, and that could explain why the investigation seemed to drag on for weeks after the fake casting call.


For many foreign models, working in China is anything but glamorous. In January, Meredith Hattam, a young American model, wrote an essay published by Fashionista, an industry website, that described low pay, long hours of drudgery and sexual exploitation. Ms. Hattam once worked for an agency in Beijing owned by a former Ukrainian model, and she said this kind of job constituted 'the dregs of the modeling world, the bottom rung of the high­ fashion ladder.'


When news of the crackdown first emerged, Ms. Hattam tried to draw attention to the plight of the detained models.


An industry group, Managers Agents Models Association, posted an online petition condemning the crackdown and asking Chinese officials to meet with industry representatives to discuss working conditions and visas. Models who have worked in China say there is no visa that specifically allows for modeling, and that China should change that.


The industry group said in its petition:


This situation is a serious blow to the reputation of the international modeling community and to the whole Chinese fashion market. It is a traumatic blow to the concerned family and friends in many countries who have spent days worried about their loved ones.


Our community has promoted China as the 'next fashion capital' on a par with New York, Paris, London and Milan.This current situation is seriously undermining that 'next fashion capital' reputation.


Unless we can restore the trust and reputation of the Chinese market by securing proper visas and work permits, while monitoring local agencies to ensure the safety of our young models, our united worldwide community will be unable to support sending models to China. This will be damaging to the Chinese fashion industry, designers, local brands, international brands, local modeling agencies and supporting businesses, such as photographers, hair stylists, makeup artists and creative companies.


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