Photo: Justin Tallis/Agence France-Presse - Getty Images
'I don't know why I'm telling you this, but we have changed the makeup three times in the past hour,' the makeup artist Val Garland said backstage at Mary Katrantzou. Garland's early tests had included stronger, darker eyes and lips in an attempt to go someplace different from Katrantzou's typical fresh-faced runway look. But why do away with a great thing? The designer and Garland decided to stick with what Garland called 'very Mary' makeup. 'The Katrantzou woman is pure and statuesque,' Garland said. 'What stands out ultimately is her skin.' To complement the architecture and craftsmanship of the new collection, which strayed from the designer's famed and oft-imitated digital prints, Garland opted for a down-to-earth and dewy look created using MAC products. Models' lips were matte and natural, cheekbones were dusted with pink blush and eyelids sported a faint wash of silver. 'I haven't picked up a tube of mascara yet in London,' Garland said.
Meanwhile, the hair stylist Anthony Turner took his inspiration from photos of the model Mariacarla Boscono taken during a night out. 'She never looks too done,' he explained. To capture a feeling of effortlessness, Turner kept models' hair down, giving it a strong center part like Boscono's and curling it into what he called 'mermaid waves' using L'Oreal Professional cream. He then brushed the hair out and applied L'Oreal Professional Mythic Oil for a more separated look. And though his reference images showed Boscono with long locks, he opted not to use extensions on shorter-haired models. 'Mermaid hair is not just about length,' Turner said. 'It's about natural beauty.'
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